Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Red & White Striped Moneta

Greetings from Austin! Well, it's always "Greetings from Austin" from me, but since I've shown you this pattern once before, I thought I would also show you this spectacular postcard mural.I have loved wearing my Colette Moneta so much, that I decided to sew a second version before the summer was up. This delightful red and white stripe fabric is a bamboo jersey knit. It's so wonderfully soft!
I made two fit changes from my first version of this pattern. I shortened the bodice by 1/2", and then I took 3/4" out of the neckline where I had a bit of gaping. My seamline is right at my natural waist now, which also means my belt doesn't look like it's riding up. Much better! 
I've read quite a few folks have had problems with the gathering method on this skirt. The instructions call for you to baste elastic to the skirt, which will gather it when you are finished. I didn't have any problems the first time around, or so I thought, so I proceeded per the instructions.

With stripes, though, you can really tell when things go wonky and it definitely did. I ended up ripping it all out and sewing it again because I wasn't able to get even gathers. It made the stripes look like they were hopping all around the top of my skirt. If I were ever to make another version, I think I'd do the regular old gathers with basting stitches.
Now, I'm still trying to sort out the coverstitch on my serger, and I continued to struggle with top-stitching over the seams on this dress. The stitch just isn't even when I go over those bumps. I tried decreasing the foot pressure, and although it helped, it didn't solve the problem. I'm thinking of trying a hump jumper. There was a thread on Pattern Review that indicated it should fix the problem. 
Source
Have you ever tried a hump jumper, sometimes called jean-a-ma-jig, or the DIY version, a stack of post-its? 

21 comments:

  1. Ooh this is just lovely!
    So I have problems with my coverstitch all the damn time. My main solutions are:
    - increase stitch length to 4
    - where the fold in the fabric is (i.e. at the hem), snip into the serged seam and push one half in one direction and the other half in the other direction, so that when you're sewing there's max 3 layers rather than 4
    - play with your tensions foreeeeeever

    I did try the hump jumper thing but it just didn't work for me on a serger.

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    1. Ooh, good tips. Thanks, Jenny! What type of serger do you have? I ended up buying the hump jumper thing because I saw it for like $2 at Joann's, so we'll see if I'm more successful...

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    2. I have a Bernina 1300 DC, and it's... OK. It does coverstitch too, but the whole thing is temperamental!

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  2. When your talking about sewing over the bump your on your Bernina 560 right? If so with your machine you should of gotten a ring of little plastic rectangles called the height compensation tool. When your pressure foot becomes uneven when sewing over the bumps you slip one of those under your pressure foot so it becomes level with your fabric lump. I use mine ALL the time. For the longest time I had no clue what it was supposed to be for until I decided to read my manual one day. Doh!

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    1. It's actually on my serger/cover stitch machine, a Baby Lock that's fairly new to me. That's a good tip on the Bernina, though! I had read something similar and made a mental note to go look up, and now I know!

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    2. Oh you have a serger/coverstitch combo? I've considered buying a combo but I've heard they were hard to switch back and forth. How's yours?

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    3. I do! It's wonderful. The switching isn't hard, you just have to change your needle position do a few other things when re-threading. It's an automatic threader, and it's a total dream!! I used to spend hours threading and re-threading on my old one.

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  3. Oooh it's lovely. I made a stripey Moneta too, ( https://sparkleneedles.wordpress.com/2014/08/15/the-stripey-moneta-a-success/ ) but I just left all my wobbly lines because I am a beginner and I was just happy that I had made it! Yours looks super professional. As an aside: I love your sandals so much. Where are they from?

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    1. Your version turned out beautifully! I think you're right when you say that trying to learn all these things as a beginner is like juggling a lot of balls in the air at once. It helps to focus on one thing at a time!

      The sandals are from Modcloth, and they're the Saltwater Sandals. I have become totally obsessed with them this summer! http://www.modcloth.com/shop/ourdesigners/saltwater-sandals

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  4. I love this dress! There is something so fun about stripey dresses :)

    I don't have a coverstitch function and my double-needle function on my sewing machine is non-functioning, at the best of times. Not much help to you, am I? LOL!

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    1. Yes! I find stripes to be oddly comforting. It's what I tend to go to when I know I have a rough day ahead, or just want something that feels steady on a chaotic day.

      That stinks about your double needle!

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  5. Gorgeous! I love the thin white stripes!
    I had the same issue with the gathering. On my first version, it worked perfectly, but on my second version it was a bit of a mess and I had to redo it. Weird.

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    1. Huh. Maybe it's a fabric thing, too? That is strange.

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  6. I've never heard of this tool but since early '80's I have used a small block of plastic that cheap Sullivan sewing machine needles come on (in Australia and NZ at least) and put it under the back end of the foot putting the foot level and hey presto, no problem. I show it in a blog post here if anyone wants a look:
    http://sewdarntired.blogspot.com.au/2012/09/little-boy-pants.html

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    1. Ah, yes! That looks like the same sort of thing the hump jumper is meant to do. You're resourceful to use the machine needle case!

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  7. Hi Lauren,

    Besides snipping out as much excess fabric in those "fat" seams as I can, I sometimes pound the seam with a hammer to make it lie flatter. But I love it — "height compensation tool." Apropos to your issue with the waist gathering technique, I used to read the blog of this particular pattern line to check out construction tips. All too often I would think, "Nope, there's a little bit better way of doing THAT. . . ."

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    1. Oh, that's a good idea. It also sounds like fun to hammer a seam! Thanks for the tip, Roseana!

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    2. I keep a dainty hammer in my sewing room for this purpose (and for my buttonhole chisel). To snip into those bitsy seam allowances, these scissors are a must:

      http://www.famorecutlery.com/quilting/4-large-ring-micro-tip-scissors.html

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  8. Simply perfect!! I just love the red/white stripes on you!

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