Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Colette Taffy

Another gem from the Colette Sewing Handbook! This is the Taffy.


Rosie Wednesday Colette Taffy

Rosie Wednesday Colette Taffy

Sewing Air

I used Silk Georgette for this top from The Common Thread, a local fabric shop here in Austin. I've never sewn a silk before, so this was a new experience for me. 

In the end, I found cutting to be the most challenging. I used masking tape to tape my fabric to my hardwood floor so that it wouldn't slip around so much while cutting. I thought it worked fairly well, until I started sewing and discovered my front top was all wobbly at the bottom ends. So perhaps not as precise as I had hoped...I saw on Colette Snippets today that they recommended a fabric spray stabilizer, so I will have to try that next time. 

Sewing turned out to be just fine, despite the airy quality of the fabric. I loved doing the French seams. They just look so beautiful. 

Bias Woes

Like a complete ninny, I forgot to staystitch my neckline as soon as I cut. The end result was that my neckline stretched quite a bit when I applied the bias tape. So my two options were...

 I could have worn it like this, with a lovely droop in the middle. 

Or like so, as a kind of off the shoulder number.

As I'm sure you can tell by my face, I wasn't too keen on either of those options. I also didn't want to put a dart because the fabric is so sheer. 

I got a stroke of genius, though, and remembered I had elastic thread in a bobbin from the shirring I did on my shirtwaist dress. So I ripped out the stitches on the bias tape, sewed a line with elastic thread in the bobbin, and it fixed the problem! The little bit of gathering just looks like it's part of the design of the top, so it worked out splendidly.



The Flutter Sleeves

I've seen quite a few posts where people have said that the largeness of the flutter sleeves bothered them on this top. I actually quite like them! What do you think? 

Rosie Wednesday Colette Taffy

Rosie Wednesday Colette Taffy

Until next time, remember to staystitch those curves!

Sunday, April 7, 2013

Mad Men Challenge: Joan Blue Shirtwaist Dress

Last week on a total whim I decided that I would participate in Julia Bobbin's Mad Men Challenge. I got the pattern on Monday and was determined to finish it in time for the Season 6 premiere. So here is my Joan masterpiece!

Joan's Dress

My version


I found the pattern on Etsy, Butterick 8576. It uses gathers at the bust area instead of a dart and pleats on the skirt. I actually really like the fit of it. It's not quite as form fitting as Joan's, but it's super comfortable and I think flattering. 

I got the fabric, a gabardine, from High Fashion Fabrics when I was in Houston last weekend. I'd like to try the pattern again it in a floral or a stripe maybe, in a lighter fabric than the gabardine. I really love the feel of this one, but it will be tough to wear in those hot Texas summers!



The back has two vents at the back, which gives it a nice little kick.

 
 "Our Joanie plays the accordion, you know..."

My brother was kind enough to let me use his airstream trailer for the pictures, as well as his accordion that he's had since we were kids. I've sewn a couple of things for the airstream, so maybe I'll give you a tour some time (if he'll let me!). 

I love Mad Men, and like most vintage enthusiasts, I'm mad about the fashion in it. I think I could get addicted to sewing a Mad Men-inspired wardrobe. I'm super excited for the premiere of Season 6 tonight, and even more jazzed that I have this swanky new Joan dress to go along with it! 



mmc27

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

A Bit of Hat Making

Last week, I took a millinery (hat making) class at Stitch Lab in downtown Austin. I had been on the wait list for ages, and when I arrived at the class and the instructor introduced herself, I understood why. Our instructor, Laura Del Villaggio is one of only a small handful of millinery instructors left in the United States! How lucky I am to have her in my hometown! And how sad that this is a dying art.


The class I took was for making Retro Fascinators, specifically a classic garrison cap. Laura provided us with the bases, out of a paribuntal straw (a close-weave, traditional straw), and walked us through some of the basics about how a base like that would be formed.

The bulk of our class focused on decorating the bases. We talked through techniques for using feathers, ribbon, and veiling. Did you know you can do anything to a feather you can do to human hair? Want your feathers curled? Just use a curling iron! It was fascinating. We also used a lot of steam to manipulate the materials we were working with.

My creation.

I ended up taking ostrich feathers and cutting them in half to get this fan effect. Then I stitched those down to the brim of the hat. The teal feathers are called goose biot, and I used steam and a pair of scissors to get them to a curl slightly. They're sewn together and then stitched down to the hat. That makes it seem like it all just came to me fully formed, but I ended up spending about three hours just playing with materials and pinning different ideas down. 

Ta da! Perched atop my recently cut flapper bob. With some friends from Oddfellow Orphanage behind me.

I had a wonderful time, and hope to attend classes at Stitch Lab again soon. Laura's next class will be on creating felt cloches. Maybe I'll be able to make it on the list!