Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Coco Chanel-Style Suit

I sewed a suit. I sewed a suit!! I still can’t believe it. If you would have asked 12-year-old me when I first started sewing if I’d ever make a suit, well, I probably would have told you I could have sewn anything. But by 16, I was gifting good male friends pajama pants without a fly because I was too timid to tackle it. So I’m glad to see that my childhood enthusiasm and fearlessness is returning! 

My class and one other concluded our 8-week course with a style walk at Austin School of Fashion Design to show off our garments. As a special treat to the students, ASFD provided us with professional hair, makeup, and photography (credits below). So you get to see my fancy suit with fancy photos! 
I'm so happy with the fit. I think this is the first time I haven't had a lingering feeling of a fit tweak I wish I could make. I mentioned I never imagined myself in Coco Chanel suit, but now that I've made one that fits me, I'm quite enamored with it. It's much easier to be when you make all the fabric and detail choices yourself!

I teased you a little last week with background on the pattern, fabric, and some in-progress photos. So let's talk about how some of these details ended up in the finished garment. I made the "lips" of the welt pocket from the back of my fabric for a nice contrast. I also added a facing in the polka dot to the inside of the pocket, so you wouldn't see the lining peeping out.

The lining is polyester in a snazzy red. I want this jacket to last me a long time, so polyester seemed like a good, durable choice. I hate that polyester gets so hot, but in a jacket, that's not a concern.

At the bottom of the jacket, I hand stitched a chain of pearls. This is a great feature of the original jacket that has stood the test of time.  The story goes that Coco Chanel was having problems with the hem of her signature jacket flipping out, so she took a chain necklace and stitched it to the bottom for extra weight. I like how the pearls tie into the polka dots on the fabric. 
The skirt is made from my sloper, with 2 darts a piece in the front and back and a small pleat at the back. I made it with the same fabric and lining, and chose to highlight the stripe on the back of the fabric at the waistband. I added a grosgrain ribbon on the inside of the waistband, then handstitched it down to finish. 
What a wonderful experience this class was. If you're in the Austin area, I can't recommend Austin School of Fashion Design highly enough. Now I'm eager to start using my new tailoring skills on other projects. I'm also feeling very ambitious, so I think I'll sew a coat this winter, too! 

Credits
Hair and Makeup: Mariana Meredith Salon

47 comments:

  1. Wonderful skirt! This is so you, especially the pearls at the hemline.

    I'm curious a out the waistline finish, especially the grosgrain ribbon detailing. Could I get a close up of it? No pressure. Just me being a nosy seamstress :)

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    1. Thank you! Sure, I can try to get a close up. Here's what I did.
      1. Stitch the waistband, right sides together, to the outside as I normally would do.
      2. Press the ribbon in half.
      3. Pin the ribbon to the raw edge of the inside of the waistband, enclosing it.
      4. Machine stitch the ribbon to the waistband, making sure to catch both sides of the ribbon.
      5. Use the hand stitch of your choosing to attach the ribbon-end of the waistband to the inside of the skirt.

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  2. Well done and what a superb finish! I hope you get many years of enjoyment from this! I also love the profesh photos!

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    1. Thanks, Marilla! I do hope to wear it for many years!

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  3. WOWSERS! The suit looks so fantastic, and so *you*. And those photos are just awesome - new work headshot, right there!

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    1. Oh, that's a brilliant idea! Although in my current headshot, I'm holding a cross stitch I did that says "Content Strategy," and that one makes me smile!

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  4. That is SO FANTASTIC! It really does have such a couture, high-end look to it, and it fits you marvelously! Great work!

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    1. Wow, thank you! Couture is quite the compliment!!

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  5. Wow! Everything from the fit to the fabric to the finishing touches are just perfect! :D You should be so proud!

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  6. Beautiful! I love all the finishes and the contrast welt pockets are fabulous! Well done!

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    1. Thanks! I love the welt pockets, too! It was a stroke of genius just when I was thinking I'd be better off with no pockets at all.

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  7. How do you launder the jacket with the pearls? I'm guessing the suit needs to be dry cleaned, but do you need to remove the pearls first? Can you tell I've never had a high end anything?

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    1. I will dry clean it, but I'm planning on leaving the pearls on. Those puppies are hand stitched twice between every pearl, so there's no way I could take them off at this point!

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  8. Really, really gorgeous! I love the pop of red on the inside! It's really beautiful. I'd love to tackle suit making, eventually.

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    1. Thanks, Michelle! You should tackle a suit! It's a wonderful sewing challenge!

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  9. How fabulous! Nice work. I agree with you about being more fearless at the beginning- I made some ridiculous stuff in middle school and then stuck to altering t-shirts for about 15 years. Hopefully a suit is in my future sometime soon, too. :)

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    1. I wish that didn't happen, but it's good that we get it back at some point if we persevere!

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  10. Gorgeous!!! You really did a great work! And I really love the combination black&white polkadots with the red lining.

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    1. Thanks, Tiz! I love it, too. Polkadots and red - two of my favorite things!

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  11. This is incredible! And you look wonderful in it!

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  12. So cool! Beautiful work! I love the pearls stitched in too and now I totally want to copy it!

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    1. Thanks, Sara! That Chanel was a clever woman. It's a great detail to copy!

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  13. How lovely! I would have never thought of a polka dot suit, but it looks so smart! Making a skirt suit for myself is very high on my sewing priorities list.

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  14. wow!! you look incredible and the suit turned out so well! i especially love the welt pockets, all the thought that was put into constructing them really shows :)

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  15. This is amazing! I love the polka dots and the bright lining! One day, I'll make a suit too, but I have too many things on my list. I have a wool coat next on my list. I can't wait to see more clothes you make as you become more fearless. I'm starting to become more fearless, I think it's a great thing. The sewing world opens up and you realize you can sew anything!

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  16. You look fabulous! The cut and style suits you so well and you made it beautifully. I hope you enjoy wearing it for many years to come.

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  17. Oh my goodness, your jacket and skirt are absolutely gorgeous! What an amazing achievement.

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  18. Yay! I finally get to see the entirety of your glorious suit! So sublime inside and out and you look so chic and stylish in it. I love all of the little details and the polka dots. Definitely swoon worthy.

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    1. Ohh la la, thank you, Tanya! You make me feel so glamorous!

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  19. Lovely Lauren! Im so glad it worked out and you look fabulous!

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  20. Beautiful work and beautiful photos! Such a lovely suit that will stand the tests of time :)

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  21. oh my goodness! did you feel like you were on project runway? lol! your suite turned out fantastic! & you looked fantastic as well! wish we had something like that around here but walking down the driveway is as close to project runway as I'll ever get lol!

    Helen

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    1. A little! Especially when I was handstitching on those pearls backstage the hour before we went out!

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  22. Wow, I am so impressed! Your suit is really beautiful, Lauren.

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