Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Winter Hallettsville Shirtwaist

More plaid and wool! This is a shirtwaist pattern I drafted myself and named The Hallettsville dress. I was sorely lacking in good winter dresses, and I'm glad I've managed to sew a few this season. I can already tell this dress will be worn to pieces.
I made two modifications to the pattern from my last version
  1. I lowered the neckline 1/4" and made it a bit more round. 
  2. I did a 1/4" FBA and then took in the waist 1/4". I had a bit of pulling at the bust on the last version, but didn't need any extra ease in the waist.
I like both of these modifications, so I'll be keeping them for future versions.
The fabric is a lovely wool suiting I had in my stash from Denver Fabrics. It's got a really nice weight to it, and the colors are just the best. 

Matching Plaid at the Sleeves

You might recall from my Hawthorn post, I started a second wool dress to figure out some of my matching conundrums. This is it! I was really pleased with the matching all around. In particular, I wanted to focus on the sleeves this time. One turned out better than the other, but I'm getting better! 


From what I've found, there's two ways you can go about matching plaid at sleeves. I tried both, and I definitely liked the second better than the first. 

Method 1: Match With a Muslin Sleeve

I started by sewing in a muslin sleeve and drawing lines with a sharpie where the plaid needed to match. I am an extremely visual person, and I thought I would like doing it this way because I could really see where things needed to go. 


Turns out, I don't care for this method. First off, you've got to draw lines all the way across, not just the measly marks I made. Because the curve is much steeper on the armscye than on the sleeve where my plaid hit, the plaid didn't actually match at the seam. I figured out that what I really needed to do was create the illusion of matching when my arm was down. To do that with this method, you're kind of eyeballing it and drawing lines.

Second off, this takes a lot of time! I cut a sleeve out of muslin, basted it in, and then had to rip it out when I was finished. Ain't nobody got time for that. 

Method 2: Match as You Cut 

Ding ding ding ding! This was the winner! In this method, you match the plaid as you are cutting at the underarm point. 


This was sooo much better. I feel like it's much more accurate, and it was faster to do. So give that a try next time you're matching plaid at your sleeves! Or, forgo it all together and cut your sleeves on the bias! 

Now I'm moving on to spring sewing, so no more plaid wool for me. Although there will likely be gingham in my near future, so I can continue to polish my matching skills. 

And for the road, here's the Hallettsville with my newly knitted sweater! It goes with everything!! Don't forget to enter the giveaway for the Craftsy class. You only have until 2/24!

36 comments:

  1. this is adorable - i can't believe you drafted it yourself! nice work (and great matching)

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    1. Thank you, Joanne! Drafting isn't as hard as you think - it's basically just a more intense version of the modifications you have to make to fit a pattern. It's fun!

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  2. So darling and happy! Of course I don't know you in real life, but based on your blog I'd say that this dress is a perfect reflection of your personality. I particularly like that thin red stripe along the front button placket.

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    1. Thank you!! You are completely right - this dress is so me, and I will probably sew many more versions!!

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  3. I have just discovered your blog and love it! I'm just teaching myself dressmaking skills and your wee tutorials are fantastic. I have had some disasters - the shirtwaister that is enormous in spite of the muslin I did, and the blouse that made my bust look utterly enormous. Well, at least Ruby, my dressmaker's model looks good in it when she is not on duty. Your latest dress is gorgeous!! xxxx

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    1. Thanks so much, Poppy! That stinks about some of your recent mishaps. Did you see my tutorials page? http://rosiewednesday.blogspot.com/p/tutorials.html The body graph method, the first one under Fitting, has been the most helpful thing for me to get better at fitting. Hope it helps!

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  4. Oh what a super cute dress! You did some excellent modifications to get the correct fit. So nice you are also working with wool. I'd like to attempt this one day on an early 50s pattern.

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    1. Thanks, Joanna! The early 50s pattern sounds like a fun make!

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  5. Forgot to mention. Awesome job on the matching! This is a skill in itself.

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    1. Thank you! I've been working on it for awhile now, and I'm happy to see it's starting to pay off!

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  6. Absolutely adorable on you! I love it. The piping is a great touch, too. And I think the sleeves look great. I missed Jen's tutorial the first time but I'll definitely remember that next time, thanks for bringing it up!

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    1. Thanks, Tasha! Yeah, Jen's tutorial was great. It took the fear out of matching at the sleeves for me!

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  7. Wow wee you drafted this yourself!? Very impressive! It's super cute!

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  8. So adorable! And killer plaid matching...

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  9. Great dress! It looks gorgeous on you.

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  10. that is so cute! & I love all the tips I find when I visit! I'm trying to line a mple pullover dress but for some reason it's giving me fits lol!
    Helen

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  11. Beautiful Lauren! I love the colors, belt, and buttons.
    Lacy

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  12. My days what amazing drafting nice work!

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    1. Thanks, Siri! I'm wearing it to work today, and these nice compliments are making me feel extra dandy!

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  14. Such a lovely outfit, and how fabulous that you made the whole thing yourself!

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    1. Thanks! The allure of wearing all handmade is just too much for me to resist!

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  16. Great job Lauren! And good on you for working hard on matching patterns correctly! I often look at all the lovely couture runway collections and drool at how perfectly they match every little detail and wish i could so the same. but i dont have the patience. oops!

    You look really happy with this dress! beautiful work!

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  17. Gorgeous dress!! I love the colour of fabric you chose.

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    1. Thank you, Kate! I love the colors too - they're a lot of my favorites!

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  18. I'm totally late to comment, but I have to say I love the dress! You did a great job matching the plaids, which I know can be unnerving (I'm always terrified to actually cut!). Super cute!

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    1. Thanks, Melissa! I'm like you - I have to work up the courage to cut!

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