The Anatomy of a Sewing Pattern Envelope

Today's post is for those of you who are newer to garment construction or need a refresher. I'll show you the pieces on the back of the pattern envelope and what they mean. I'll be using Simplicity 3833 for this illustration.

How to Read the Pattern Envelope in 10 Parts

1. The Pattern Number. Each pattern has a unique number that can be used to identify it.

2. Pattern Pieces. The number of pieces you'll have inside the pattern envelope for a size. There will be multiple sizes within your pattern.

3. Pattern Illustrations. Just what they sound like! These illustrations allow you to see the variations included in the pattern, as well as details like dart placement and seams.

4. Fabric. This fabric will get you the best results for the pattern, as it was intended by the designer. For example, you likely wouldn't want to make a dress with gathers out of a heavy wool as it would be very hard to make the gathers!

5.  Notions. All the small objects and accessories you'll need to finish the project, like a zipper.

6. Body Measurements. Select the size that's closest to your body measurements. You can follow the line down to match how much fabric you'll need for your size. When selecting the bust measurement, choose from your high bust measurement. 

Source

Your high bust is a better indicator of your rib cage size. Your full bust just tells you how busty you are. The big 4 pattern companies (Vogue, Simplicity, Butterick, and McCalls) design for a B-cup size. You will get a better fitting garment if you choose the high bust measurement, then you can do a full or small bust adjustment to account for your busty-ness.

A note on Vogue patterns: Vogue likes to stick their body measurements and size table on the top flap of the pattern, as opposed to the back. On the back you'll only see the size and recommended fabric. 

7. Width of fabric. Fabric comes in different widths, so if you are buying wider fabric, you'll need less length. Validate the width of your fabric before purchashing yardage. 

8. Interfacing quantities. Interfacing is a somewhat stiff material that you place on the wrong side of fabric to help give it a bit of rigidity. It's usually used at necklines and in collars and such. This tells you the amount to buy for the version of the dress you're making. 

9. Finished garment measurements. The Big 4 pattern companies tend to put a lot of ease in their garments, so pay attention to this. For example, this garment has 2 1/2" of ease at the bust for my size, which is a lot! I ended up sizing down for this pattern and it fit much better. 

10. Notations on fabric with/without nap. Nap means that the fabric will look different depending on how it's positioned. This usually comes in the form of texture (velvet) or design (plaids, novelty prints, etc.). So if you have dogs on your fabric all lined up in a row standing up, you'll need more fabric to make sure all the dogs stay looking like that on your finished garment. This pattern has ** next to each fabric width, indicating that they've given you all fabric requirements with nap, which is the maximum amount of fabric you'd need.

If you'd like a bit more information on body measurements, see my body graph method of understanding fit.

Sew Along in January for this Pattern! 

Stay tuned for a Sew Along for Simplicity 3833! I'll be posting up schedule and basic information next month with the sewing starting in January, and I'll also give instructions for doing a bust adjustment. You'll really get to see the ins and outs of this pattern!