Shift Dress Sew Along: Back, Shoulder, and Arm Adjustments

Melody of the Melody Sews just posted up a wonderful series of tutorials for Simplicity 3833 on how to do the following adjustments, and know if you need them:

• Broad Back 
• Broad Shoulder
• Square Shoulder
• Large Arm

See the post.  Thanks, Melody! This is really sensational!

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Shift Dress Sew Along: Stay Stitching and Tracing Darts

Hooray! Today is the first day of sewing for the shift dress sew along! Let's get started, shall we?

Stay Stitching

Stay stitching is stitching along a single layer of fabric on a curved area, such as the neckline. It prevents the fabric from stretching as you're constructing the garment. We'll be stay stitching in 3 places. A few items to note: 

• Stay stitching is done 1/8" from the edge of the seam allowance. So we'll be stitching at 1/2".
• Direction matters. Sew in the direction indicated in the diagrams below. 
• If you make a mistake while stay stitching, don't rip it out. That will just stretch the fabric more.
• Unlike a basting stitch, this is a permanent stitch that will stay in your garment. 

Tracing Darts

To transfer the darts, we'll be using wax tracing paper. The kind I'm using below comes from Joann's Fabrics. You want the waxy side to go onto the wrong side of your fabric, where you want the marks to show. By folding the paper in half, you can do both sides at once.

I find the wax paper from Joann's isn't very dark, so I use a ruler along with my tracing wheel and go over it a few times. There's a bit of a curve to the dart lines on the front bodice, so I used my french curve ruler. 

When you're finished, you'll see dotted lines the color of your waxed paper that show you where to stitch your darts. 

Now, repeat this process for the back darts. Also make sure you've clipped your notches as well as the top of the sleeve head. 

Next up, we'll assemble our bodice front. 

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Shift Dress Sew Along: Pattern Alterations for the Plus-Sized Figure

Today's post is from Carolyn of Diary of a Sewing Fanatic. Carolyn is an experienced sewist who has been blogging her sewing adventures since 2006. She is passionate about getting more fashionable plus-size sewing patterns, and has a wealth of knowledge with a wonderful wardrobe! 

The first thing I do when I get a new pattern is take out the pattern instructions and read them. This is often times done days before I actually begin any work on the garment. I need the time to think through the pattern alterations and any construction changes that I want to make to the pattern. So that was the first thing that I did with this pattern.

After reviewing the instructions, I realized that the darts incorporated into the seam of the skirt and bodice could present some challenges especially for a plus-size bustline. Lauren has already addressed the full bust adjustment on her blog with a supplies list and a wonderful gif that perfectly illustrates how the FBA should work.

When making this change, Lauren has added inches to the dress front which will also address any extra abdomen issues that you may have. There was a question about how much width that would add to the dress front. Personally, I would not take that extra width out of the side.

I would leave it alone and cut up the front piece on the side, up to but not all the way to the top, overlap the additional inches added from the hemline up. That would leave the extra space needed for the FBA and abdomen, yet reduce the amount of added inches at the hemline and sides. See pics below…

Added space in the skirt pattern for FBA alterations

Sliced part on the left side of the skirt piece

Preparing to Make the Alterations

But I'm getting ahead of myself...after I cut out my pattern pieces, I always, always, always lay them down on my TNT (tried and true) dress pattern to make sure that they will fit my body. If they don't, I work from there with this checklist ~

• Bust points do they match? Are they near each other? Do I need to move them? 
• I remove all darts except the ones pointing towards my bustline. Why? Because I personally don't like them emphasizing my derriere or my abdomen - but - and I emphasize this is my personal choice and if you're not as well endowed in those areas as I am, please feel free to use them. Because as we know, we all carry our weight differently. 
• Check length of the pattern versus my dress' length. I know that this length works for me and I don't deviate from it. 
• The sleeve's bicep width is checked and measured against my sleeve pattern to insure that I've got enough room. If not, I use this method to increase the width. 
• I will need to add inches to this dress to get it around my body. The pattern only goes up to a size 22 and it seems like a slim 22. 

I'm sure now that you're annoyed because you may not have a TNT dress pattern. If not, I highly suggest that you check those things too...especially the bust point...where the dart begins and ends is integral to the design of the dress.

My TNT dress pattern laying on the cutting table waiting 

to be used as a base for the pattern alterations.

Laying pattern pieces on top of my TNT dress pattern

My Actual Alterations

Since I'm not doing an FBA, I sliced the front of my skirt piece from hem to the lengthen/shorten line.

Spread it so that covered my TNT pattern. Added tracing paper to the pattern so that I could manually add in the inches I'm missing by using my TNT dress pattern as the base.

Traced the additional inches that I need from my pattern unto the skirt pattern.

For the bodice, I sliced it apart 4" from the bottom of the pattern piece. Then I pinned it to the top of my TNT dress pattern and swung it around until the shoulder seam matched my pattern pieces shoulder seam. This will change the neckline opening but I'm okay with that because this is a neckline that works for me. A new bodice front was made from the top by putting a new piece of tracing paper over these pieces. Then I traced the parts I needed from the Simplicity pattern and from my TNT dress pattern to get a new bodice piece.

Then both new pieces were placed on top of my TNT dress pattern to check to make sure that they worked.

I will tell you that I'm a little concerned about where the bust dart will fall. It's a little lower than I'd like so much so that I'm thinking of making a muslin of the dress front to insure that all of these alterations work. But these are the pattern alterations I've made to my pattern and where I'm at in the making of the dress.

Conclusion

These alterations are real specific to my body. I hope that between the FBA instructions that Lauren has already posted and the alterations I've made to my pattern that you as a plus size sewist will see something that clicks and works for you. It is really hard to list a bunch of general alterations for this dress. I kind of feel like a good sewing book or YouTube video could help you with that…but if you actually have a dress pattern that works for you...start there!

Start there because the ease you like will already be included in the pattern. The dress length will be where you like to wear your dress and so many decisions that need to be made when altering a pattern will already be done.

Finally here are the fabrics that I plan to use to make my version of Simplicity 3833 - a lightweight creamy ivory wool crepe for the top and the burgundy/orange acrylic tweed blend for the dress skirt.

I truly hope that these alterations have been helpful to you. If you decide to add a sleeve, and need alterations, this post should help. I didn't offer back alterations because the same alterations to the front should apply minus the dart, but I will be posting even more detailed information to my blog as I construct my dress. Please feel free to ask here or there and I will attempt to answer questions as best I can.

I look forward to seeing the bevy of completed dresses to come!

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My Interview on Jennifer Lauren Vintage

Jen of Jennifer Lauren Vintage is doing a series of interviews with sewing bloggers, and today my interview is up! You can hear all about how I got into sewing, my greatest sewing accomplishments and failures, and what I get up to when I'm not behind my sewing machine. See the interview.

Next week in the Shift Dress Sew Along, we talk plus size adjustments and get started sewing! It's gonna be fun! 

Shift Dress Sew Along: Full Bust Adjustment

A common fit adjustment is a full bust adjustment (FBA). Even if you've done an FBA before, you might be a little stumped on how to do it for Simplicity 3833. It's tricky because the dart is made up of two pieces. Have no fear! Today I will show you how, with animated gifs!

How do I know I need an FBA? 

The major pattern companies like Simplicity design for a B-cup size. They also tend to have a considerable amount of ease (extra space between your body and fabric). Since this isn't a very fitted dress, you may end up not needing one. This is why a muslin is helpful! You can check it before you sew with your fashion fabric. 

Here's what to look for: 

1. Tightness across the chest. You will see horizontal wrinkles when you need more width and vertical wrinkles when you need more length. 
2. A gaping neckline. This can be a sign that you're full-busted and have selected a size that's too large for you. Remember it's best to select a size from your high-bust adjustment, which is a better indicator of your rib cage size instead of your busty-ness.
3. Where the dart points and ends. It should be pointing at your bust apex (nipple) but end before it. It will usually end about 1" away from the bust apex, but it can be as much as 3" if you're very full-busted. 

Supplies You'll Need

Here's what you'll need to make the adjustment: 

1. French curve ruler
2. Straight-edge ruler
3. Tracing paper. Here's what I use. 
4. Tape
5. Paper scissors
6. Pencil

Making the FBA: Bodice Front 

To begin, mark lines on your pattern pieces like the ones show in red below. The dot is your bust apex. This isn't marked on your pattern, so you'll need to find it for you. An easy way to do it is to mark it on the muslin, measure the distance from the dart tip to your apex, and then mark the same on the pattern.

Cut along the lines. Then spread apart the bodice. Then distance you spread should either be: 

• The difference between your full bust measurement and the measurement that's on the pattern divided by 2 (since you have 2 boobs!). 
• The distance needed to make the center front of your pattern match center front on you. You can hold you pattern piece up to you to check this. Remember it includes seam allowances when lining it up to your shoulder and side. 
• The amount of space you have when you slash your muslin to allow extra room (see photos of this method). 

Here it is in action:

Tape the new spread bodice onto tracing paper. Use the straight-edge ruler to draw the gap at center front. Use the french curve ruler to connect the gap at bottom of the bodice. 

Making the FBA: Bodice Bottom 

Now, don't forget we have a second pattern piece that composes part of our dart. We need to modify that pattern piece to match the changes we've made. 

Draw a line on the bottom pattern piece to match the vertical line you drew on piece 1. 

Cut along that line. Spread the needed amount to match the amount at the top of the bodice. 

Tape extra tracing paper to fill the gap. Use the french curve to connect the lines at bottom and top. 

Ta da! You're done with the FBA! If you're doing a small bust adjustment (SBA), you'll follow the exact same steps except you'll be collapsing instead of spreading.

*Update* Some folks are asking if this also increases the waist and hip. Yes, it does. It's done that way so you're grainline stays intact and things still sit right. If that's way too much for you, I would take it in at the side seams now at the waist and the hips if it's too big there, too.

Have other fit adjustments you need? 

Upload your photos to the Flickr group, and I can help you sort it out! 

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Shift Dress Sew Along: Pointers for Making a Muslin

Before we dive into muslin making, I have two quick notes: 

1. Joann's is having a Simplicity pattern sale January 12! A reader got a tip from a store clerk and was kind enough to share it with us. So if you don't have a pattern yet, now's the time! 
2. If you're sewing the original pattern, Simplicity 8498, this post details the differences between the reprint and original 1960s pattern. It might be helpful to keep in mind while we're talking about fit. 

Now on to muslins!

What is a Muslin? 

It's a test-run of the garment you use to get out any fitting kinks. It's named that because you usually use muslin, an inexpensive cotton. I buy mine by the bolt at Joann's when there are good sales. 

Why Make a Muslin? 

So you'll wear the garment in the end! For a very long time, I didn't know what muslins were or why they were important. I had so many handmade dresses that I never wore because they were ill-fitting.

In particular, I can remember one dress I made in college that I wore to an event on a boat. The bust was incredibly ill-fitting and the shoulders needed to be taken in, things I didn't know how to do. I spent the entire evening wearing a life vest to cover it up! That dress never saw the light of day again, which was a crying shame after all the work I put into it. A muslin would have saved me! 

How to Make a Muslin

You don't need to worry about any finishes or things that are on the inside of the garment, so it's much quicker to assemble. Even though it's a quick version of the garment, you should still mind seam allowances and accurately stitch darts. Otherwise you won't really be able to tell the fit.

Here's the steps you'll follow to make the muslin: 

1. Cut out pieces 1, 2, and 3 from the pattern (bodice front and back) in muslin or similar material. Transfer the darts and clip the notches.
2. Sew at 5/8" along the neckline and armholes. 
3. Sew darts. Press. 
4. Assemble bodice front. Sew bodice front to back at shoulder and side seams. You can use a basting stitch, which is easier to rip if you need adjustments. Press open seams.
5. Clip every inch or so into the neckline and armhole up to your stitch line. This will let you see where the seam will lie, and give you room to get in and out of the dress.
6. Either using your dress form or getting a friend to help you by pinning the back, try on your muslin. 

Determine Fit Alterations

Is the dress comfortable? Move around, sit down, act like you would on a normal day to get a feel for it. Do you see any fabric pulling, or excess fabric pooling?

If you're looking for a resource for identifying and altering clothes for fit, my favorite book is Fit for Real People. See how I use it. 

Helping Each Other Fit

Our next two posts will be on alterations - I will show you how to do a full bust adjustment for this pattern (and how to know if you need it), and Carolyn from Diary of a Sewing Fanatic will show you what to do if you are modifying the pattern for a plus size. 

Once you've got a muslin done, upload it to the Flickr pool, and we can all help each other spot fitting issues and get them fixed! 

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Shift Dress Sew Along: Selecting and Preparing Fabric

Today we'll be covering fabric and all things therein! I've never met a seamstress that didn't have a fabric stash. It's so much fun to consider all the possibilities at this early stage!

Recommended Fabric 

In general, you're looking for a lightweight fabric like cotton, linen, or wool gabardine. There's a long list of options at the back of the pattern envelope to choose from. Colette patterns has a great series on understanding fabric types if you need help deciphering the options.

Keep in Mind

Print placement. You have a seam under your bust, as well as one down the center front. You need to buy extra fabric to get the placement right. Typically you want to put the dominant part of the print down your center front and match it, especially with something like plaid where it's noticeable.

Wrinkles. Linen is a recommended fabric, and it wrinkles a lot. I still like sewing with it, so I've done Simplicity 3833 out of it. If that bothers you, select a different fabric. Generally speaking, anything natural will wrinkle more than synthetic fabrics like polyester.

Season. Are you sewing this dress for a particular season? I live in Texas, so I can get away with something as light as a cotton voile almost year round. If you're going for winter, think of using a lightweight wool like wool gabardine.

Some Options

I've highlighted some options below for you. Just click through to see the source/buy yourself some yardage!

Jade Wool Gabardine on Etsy

Mustard Linen from Hart's Fabric

Dot Plaid Cotton on Purl Soho

Blooms Cotton Voile on Mood

Swell Hues Cotton on Spoonflower

Gold Brocade from Joann's

       

Before You Cut 

Tilly from Tilly and the Buttons has a wonderful tutorial that covers everything you need to know and do before you cut, including pretreating (wash it like you will after sewn!), and how to place fabric on grain. Before you cut tutorial from Tilly and the Buttons.

I only have one extra tip that's specific to what we'll be doing - add an extra 1/8" seam allowance at the center back seam if you would like to use the zipper method I am going to show you. You can do it with 5/8", but that extra 1/8" helps.

Have any of you purchased fabric already or have something in mind? I'd love to see it! Share it with us  in the Flickr pool!

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