Shift Dress Sew Along: Pointers for Making a Muslin

Before we dive into muslin making, I have two quick notes: 

1. Joann's is having a Simplicity pattern sale January 12! A reader got a tip from a store clerk and was kind enough to share it with us. So if you don't have a pattern yet, now's the time! 
2. If you're sewing the original pattern, Simplicity 8498, this post details the differences between the reprint and original 1960s pattern. It might be helpful to keep in mind while we're talking about fit. 

Now on to muslins!

What is a Muslin? 

It's a test-run of the garment you use to get out any fitting kinks. It's named that because you usually use muslin, an inexpensive cotton. I buy mine by the bolt at Joann's when there are good sales. 

Why Make a Muslin? 

So you'll wear the garment in the end! For a very long time, I didn't know what muslins were or why they were important. I had so many handmade dresses that I never wore because they were ill-fitting.

In particular, I can remember one dress I made in college that I wore to an event on a boat. The bust was incredibly ill-fitting and the shoulders needed to be taken in, things I didn't know how to do. I spent the entire evening wearing a life vest to cover it up! That dress never saw the light of day again, which was a crying shame after all the work I put into it. A muslin would have saved me! 

How to Make a Muslin

You don't need to worry about any finishes or things that are on the inside of the garment, so it's much quicker to assemble. Even though it's a quick version of the garment, you should still mind seam allowances and accurately stitch darts. Otherwise you won't really be able to tell the fit.

Here's the steps you'll follow to make the muslin: 

1. Cut out pieces 1, 2, and 3 from the pattern (bodice front and back) in muslin or similar material. Transfer the darts and clip the notches.
2. Sew at 5/8" along the neckline and armholes. 
3. Sew darts. Press. 
4. Assemble bodice front. Sew bodice front to back at shoulder and side seams. You can use a basting stitch, which is easier to rip if you need adjustments. Press open seams.
5. Clip every inch or so into the neckline and armhole up to your stitch line. This will let you see where the seam will lie, and give you room to get in and out of the dress.
6. Either using your dress form or getting a friend to help you by pinning the back, try on your muslin. 

Determine Fit Alterations

Is the dress comfortable? Move around, sit down, act like you would on a normal day to get a feel for it. Do you see any fabric pulling, or excess fabric pooling?

If you're looking for a resource for identifying and altering clothes for fit, my favorite book is Fit for Real People. See how I use it. 

Helping Each Other Fit

Our next two posts will be on alterations - I will show you how to do a full bust adjustment for this pattern (and how to know if you need it), and Carolyn from Diary of a Sewing Fanatic will show you what to do if you are modifying the pattern for a plus size. 

Once you've got a muslin done, upload it to the Flickr pool, and we can all help each other spot fitting issues and get them fixed! 

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