Before we get started with all this facing business, go ahead and sew front and back shoulder seams and side seams together. To see how I sew and finish seams, reference the bodice front construction.
First, iron on fusible interfacing. If you're doing a sleeveless version, do this for your armhole facings as well.
When you're done, you'll have fusible interfacing on the wrong side of each piece.
Next, stitch together the shoulder seam of the facings. Press open the seam.
Now you can clean finish the edge of your facings. I use the serger.
Pin the facing to the edge of the neckline, right sides together. Fold over the edge of the facing to match it up with the zipper edge.
*Update* Several readers suggested wrapping the facing around the zipper and stitching around the top for a cleaner finish. Here's a picture of that method from The Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing.
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Stitch at a 5/8" seam allowance. Then clip about every inch or so, trying to get as close to the stitching as possible without cutting it. This will help you have a nice curve when you press it. Then trim and grade that seam. Press the facing, with the seam flaps going towards the facing.
Now you'll understitch the facing down. The seam flaps should be already pressed towards the facing; take your fingers and and keep it pressed open as you sew. You're stitching the seam flaps down to the facing. This stitch will only show on the inside. It keeps your facing from flipping out.
Next, we'll be doing some hand stitching. I found this to be very challenging to photograph, so I've found some illustrations instead.
On the zipper side, you'll be doing a slip stitch to attach the folded piece of fabric to the zipper. This stitch is almost invisible. You're catching a couple of threads on the inside of each one of the folds.
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At the edges of the facing, you'll be attaching to the bodice with a catch stitch. You want to grab 1 or 2 threads when you catch the bodice front so you can barely see the stitches on the outside. So get cozy in front of the tele, and get to stitching!
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Here's the inside of my bodice, with the catch stitching complete. Because I've also got a serged edge, you can barely see the stitching on the inside, too!
It's starting to look like a real dress now! Next up, sleeves.
If you wrap the facing edge around the zipper and then stitch, you get a much cleaner edge at the top of your zipper.
ReplyDeleteHi Alicia - I'm not sure I'm understanding the method you're recommending. Wouldn't wrapping the facing around the zipper stop it from zipping up?
DeleteI agree with the above comment about wrapping the facing around the zipper and then stitching the facing to the neckline. Trim, grade & clip curves, and since the under stitching helps to keep the facing rolled to the inside, the catch stitching really is not necessary- just tack the facings at the seams.
ReplyDeleteAh, I see what you mean now. I found a picture in The Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing that I'll update the post with. I'm such a visual learner, I couldn't get it until I saw an illustration! I take your meaning on the catch stitch - it's probably a bit of overkill. Tacking would work just as well.
DeleteI always catch stitch my facings to the dress, then insert the lining over them. When garments go in the wash, I want them to survive without becoming warped (I do shrink my fabrics before sewing, but sometimes those facings are terrible at staying still unless they are completely stitched to the main fabric).
ReplyDeleteI don't have a serger (crying) so I resort to binding the edges of the facings for a pop of color on the inside if left unlined, or I set my machine to zigzag length 0.5, width 6, and zigzag over the edge. It is similar to a serged rolled hem, and the problem I have is finished edges showing up on the outside after pressing. I have tried the edge stitches on my machine, but it always wants to pull the edge under and pucker it no matter what the tension is set at, and my machine seems to be made for a left handed seamstress because the edge stitches require the edge to be on the left side. I hope to get a serger within the next year. I feel so inefficient without one.
ReplyDeleteI don't have a serger (crying) so I resort to binding the edges of the facings for a pop of color on the inside if left unlined, or I set my machine to zigzag length 0.5, width 6, and zigzag over the edge. It is similar to a serged rolled hem, and the problem I have is finished edges showing up on the outside after pressing. I have tried the edge stitches on my machine, but it always wants to pull the edge under and pucker it no matter what the tension is set at, and my machine seems to be made for a left handed seamstress because the edge stitches require the edge to be on the left side. I hope to get a serger within the next year. I feel so inefficient without one.
ReplyDeleteI always catch stitch my facings to the dress, then insert the lining over them. When garments go in the wash, I want them to survive without becoming warped (I do shrink my fabrics before sewing, but sometimes those facings are terrible at staying still unless they are completely stitched to the main fabric).
ReplyDelete