Thursday, January 2, 2014

Shift Dress Sew Along: Selecting and Preparing Fabric

Today we'll be covering fabric and all things therein! I've never met a seamstress that didn't have a fabric stash. It's so much fun to consider all the possibilities at this early stage!

Recommended Fabric 

In general, you're looking for a lightweight fabric like cotton, linen, or wool gabardine. There's a long list of options at the back of the pattern envelope to choose from. Colette patterns has a great series on understanding fabric types if you need help deciphering the options.

Keep in Mind

Print placement. You have a seam under your bust, as well as one down the center front. You need to buy extra fabric to get the placement right. Typically you want to put the dominant part of the print down your center front and match it, especially with something like plaid where it's noticeable.

Wrinkles. Linen is a recommended fabric, and it wrinkles a lot. I still like sewing with it, so I've done Simplicity 3833 out of it. If that bothers you, select a different fabric. Generally speaking, anything natural will wrinkle more than synthetic fabrics like polyester.

Season. Are you sewing this dress for a particular season? I live in Texas, so I can get away with something as light as a cotton voile almost year round. If you're going for winter, think of using a lightweight wool like wool gabardine.

Some Options

I've highlighted some options below for you. Just click through to see the source/buy yourself some yardage!

Jade Wool Gabardine on Etsy
echino mustard linen
Mustard Linen from Hart's Fabric
Dot Plaid Cotton on Purl Soho
Blooms Cotton Voile on Mood
Swell hues, going Dotty 1
Swell Hues Cotton on Spoonflower
Gold Brocade from Joann's

       

Before You Cut 

Tilly from Tilly and the Buttons has a wonderful tutorial that covers everything you need to know and do before you cut, including pretreating (wash it like you will after sewn!), and how to place fabric on grain. Before you cut tutorial from Tilly and the Buttons.

I only have one extra tip that's specific to what we'll be doing - add an extra 1/8" seam allowance at the center back seam if you would like to use the zipper method I am going to show you. You can do it with 5/8", but that extra 1/8" helps.

Have any of you purchased fabric already or have something in mind? I'd love to see it! Share it with us  in the Flickr pool!

16 comments:

  1. Oh, I want to join this sew along, only I don't have that pattern and being used to JoAnn sales I just can't bear to buy it full price! I may not make it in time, but there is definitely one of these in my future! I really can't wait to see everyone's dresses :)

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    1. Oh, I hear you! I was hoping they'd have a New Year sale we could all take advantage of. I'll keep my eyes peeled!

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  2. Oh my -- I'm joining this sew-along -- and I have the perfect Japanese linen to use. I wear shifts all the time -- that, with the skirt, is my go to garnent for work!

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  3. I am kind of thinking houndstooth... I am sensing some fabric buying in my future.

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  4. Simplicity will be on sale @ Joanne's on 12 jan

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    1. Gasp! Thanks for sharing it with us! How on earth did you know? I haven't seen it in the ads!

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  5. I was n the store n the store clerk scanned pattern with the thingy n it gave the future sales date. But being a pattern junkie I paid full price.

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    1. That's great to know, thanks! I'll let everyone else know next post.

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  6. Ooh just saw your sew along! I have plans to make a shift dress for the big day out festival in feb so I was wondering if I could join in though I'd be using a different but similar pattern. I already have a few shift dress patterns and can't bear or justify buying another! ;)

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    1. Sure! All of the steps may not be relevant for you, but there should be some techniques in the tutorials that will.

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  7. Rosie, do you think knit fabric would work for this pattern?

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    1. Hmmm, if you try one without a ton of stretch, that might work. It will definitely change the look of the dress, though, just keep that in mind. You might want to try it on a similar but cheaper fabric first to see if you like how it drapes on you in a knit.

      I asked my tailoring teacher once about swapping in knits on a pattern that recommends wovens, and she said that it is usually fine to sew a "woven" pattern with a knit. The problem comes in when you go from a pattern designed for a knit and try to sew it with a woven, because most patterns designed for knits will have zero or negative ease to account for the stretch of the fabric.

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  8. I'm new to sewing. I have bias tape is that the same as stay tape to use for the zipper?

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  9. I'm having the Jean Shrimpton shift dress made and was wondering what fabric you suggest using? It is for spring in Australia but I want something heavy enough to hold it's shape like Jean's dress did

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