How do I know I need an FBA?
The major pattern companies like Simplicity design for a B-cup size. They also tend to have a considerable amount of ease (extra space between your body and fabric). Since this isn't a very fitted dress, you may end up not needing one. This is why a muslin is helpful! You can check it before you sew with your fashion fabric.
Here's what to look for:
- Tightness across the chest. You will see horizontal wrinkles when you need more width and vertical wrinkles when you need more length.
- A gaping neckline. This can be a sign that you're full-busted and have selected a size that's too large for you. Remember it's best to select a size from your high-bust adjustment, which is a better indicator of your rib cage size instead of your busty-ness.
- Where the dart points and ends. It should be pointing at your bust apex (nipple) but end before it. It will usually end about 1" away from the bust apex, but it can be as much as 3" if you're very full-busted.
Supplies You'll Need
Here's what you'll need to make the adjustment:
- French curve ruler
- Straight-edge ruler
- Tracing paper. Here's what I use.
- Tape
- Paper scissors
- Pencil
Making the FBA: Bodice Front
To begin, mark lines on your pattern pieces like the ones show in red below. The dot is your bust apex. This isn't marked on your pattern, so you'll need to find it for you. An easy way to do it is to mark it on the muslin, measure the distance from the dart tip to your apex, and then mark the same on the pattern.
Cut along the lines. Then spread apart the bodice. Then distance you spread should either be:
- The difference between your full bust measurement and the measurement that's on the pattern divided by 2 (since you have 2 boobs!).
- The distance needed to make the center front of your pattern match center front on you. You can hold you pattern piece up to you to check this. Remember it includes seam allowances when lining it up to your shoulder and side.
- The amount of space you have when you slash your muslin to allow extra room (see photos of this method).
Here it is in action:
Tape the new spread bodice onto tracing paper. Use the straight-edge ruler to draw the gap at center front. Use the french curve ruler to connect the gap at bottom of the bodice.
Making the FBA: Bodice Bottom
Now, don't forget we have a second pattern piece that composes part of our dart. We need to modify that pattern piece to match the changes we've made.
Draw a line on the bottom pattern piece to match the vertical line you drew on piece 1.
Cut along that line. Spread the needed amount to match the amount at the top of the bodice.
Tape extra tracing paper to fill the gap. Use the french curve to connect the lines at bottom and top.
Ta da! You're done with the FBA! If you're doing a small bust adjustment (SBA), you'll follow the exact same steps except you'll be collapsing instead of spreading.
*Update* Some folks are asking if this also increases the waist and hip. Yes, it does. It's done that way so you're grainline stays intact and things still sit right. If that's way too much for you, I would take it in at the side seams now at the waist and the hips if it's too big there, too.
*Update* Some folks are asking if this also increases the waist and hip. Yes, it does. It's done that way so you're grainline stays intact and things still sit right. If that's way too much for you, I would take it in at the side seams now at the waist and the hips if it's too big there, too.
Have other fit adjustments you need?
Upload your photos to the Flickr group, and I can help you sort it out!
I'm a self taught sewer, I'm now trying to follow blogs like yours to learn better and correct techniques. I just wanted to say I never knew to use a high bust measurement to choose pattern size! I've always used my full bust measurement. Being a plus size 18 with a g cup chest, I've often resulted to just going a size up in patterns and taking in the sides etc. I feel like I've been missing out on this gem of info for so long. Just wanted to say thanks!
ReplyDeleteGrace, I'm so glad this helped you!! I can't wait to see the end result of your dress; I hope you'll share it with us. Let me know if you have any questions along the way!
DeleteGrace can I also add that as a plus size woman you will need that fba because without it the angle of the dart doesn't work!
DeleteI've just made my toile (English); it fits brilliantly at the front, no FBA needed, as I (inadvertently - cough!) used my high bust measurement, but the b***** thing doesn't even come close to doing up at the back! I've expanded it by redrawing the back on a couple of stuck together newspapers - is this correct? I don't want to remake my toile, as I don't have any muslin left and I want to get on with the dress, and the front fits really well. Thank you xx
ReplyDeleteHi Julia. Were your side seams hitting at your side, even though it was snug? You likely need to add equal parts to front and back to make sure that your side seams stay in the right place.
DeleteAlso, are you making a sleeved or a sleeveless version? Adding extra on the side seams will adjust your armhole, too. You'll need to add the same amount extra to either the facing or the sleeve at the seam that intersects with the side. Make sense?
Hello, that does make sense, especially about the facings. I've made it larger at the centre seam, and I'll cut it back as necessary when I tack it together. The front fit is so perfect, no adjustments needed! It must be beginners luck. Thank you. I'll show you a picture and a blog post when it's finished and fabulous.
DeleteHi, I've got the opposite problem, and was wondering, for a small bust, do we still go by our high bust measurement, or go up a size & then do the opposite (slash & overlap rather than slash & spread)? It's more that I need the back & shoulders, but the bagginess is over the front… thinking out loud as I muddle along trying to get a decent fit ;)
ReplyDeleteThe same concept applies for small bust - go with your high bust measurement. I'm wondering if you might need to size down, though, if it's big all over. This pattern has a ton of ease.
DeleteIf you look at the bottom left of the back of the pattern, you'll see the finished garment measurements. There's 2 1/2 inches of ease at the bust, for example. It's not a super fitted dress, but I went down a size because I wanted it more fitted than that! Think you could stomach another muslin to test it?
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ReplyDeleteHi, I will also need a SBA. I was wondering if you know of a good tutorial on small bust adjustments. I see several on the internet but I'm not sure which one would be the best. It would be great if you could recommend one for those of us who need the SBA instead of the FBA. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThanks!
Hi Kat. This tutorial from Christine Haynes recent Emery Sew Along is very good: http://christinehaynes.blogspot.com/2013/11/emery-dress-sew-along-how-to-do-small.html. Note that the darts are different than our pattern here, though. So you should still follow my original red lines for where to cut. You'll also need to make sure that you reduce the same amount on the lower bodice pattern piece. I hope that helps!
DeleteWow, Lauren - thank you so much! I appreciate that you are helping we under-endowed ladies as well as the extra-endowed! Your help is greatly appreciated.
DeleteThis is a very good explanation of FBA...thank you.
ReplyDeleteBeing an "older lady" ,that has the aging process.ha, I need to lower the bust apex.. The darts need to be lowered..I am not sure ,how to do this, on this pattern? any suggestions, would be appreciated.. I am a self taught sewer, and have not learned the correct way to fit.
Hi Judy,
DeleteThere's a couple different methods of doing this, but I think this one is the easiest:
1. Mark your bust apex on your pattern.
2. Draw a box around the dart and cut out the box.
3. Move the dart, keeping the edges parallel, until the dart points to your apex.
You'll need to shift down the leg of the dart on bodice piece 2 the same amount. I got these instructions from a great fitting book called Fit for Real People (pg. 134) if you're looking for a more comprehensive resource.
Hope that helps!
HI Lauren,
Deletethank you so much.. This sounds like a good idea.. I am going to buy this book,everyone says it's a good fitting book..
Yes, it's great! I did a post on how I use it here, if you want to know more about what's in the book: http://rosiewednesday.blogspot.com/2013/05/the-starting-point-for-getting-good-fit_5.html
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