To make the pattern, I started with my pants sloper, sewed a muslin, and then tried them on inside-out. Then my pattern making instructor pinned excess fabric, I'd sew along that line, and we'd repeat the process again. I did that over and over until I got a fit that I liked. Then I transferred all my markings to the pattern.
This wool gabardine doesn't have any stretch to it, so I made them a bit looser cigarette pant. I think I can do a slimmer fit even still, and intend to with a stretchy fabric. Although these pants were field tested during the holidays, and I am happy to report that I was able to comfortably wear them even after Christmas dinner.
I used ban roll in the waistband for the first time, and gollies, I love it! I purchased it on a suggestion from The Lost Art of Tailoring by Gentleman Jim. It adds stiffness which keeps your waistband from wrinkling as you wear it throughout the day. I highly recommend it! I wish I had found it earlier.
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While I was plotting and scheming for the Bedford Cigarette Pants, I interviewed Aislinn of BooBoo Kitty Couture, who sews the most sensational made-to-measure cigarette pants. So stay tuned for that interview on Thursday! I got the dirt! You know, the poop, scoop, skinny, the haps, the dillio, the 4-11. ("Pushing Daisies reference anyone?!)






What a great fit!
ReplyDeleteThank you, Nat! That's a seamstresses favorite compliment (or mine, at least!).
DeleteNice! These look really smart. (And I think any garment that passes the Christmas dinner test is a winner :) )
ReplyDeleteThanks, Sue! I agree; that's the real test of a good pair of pants!
DeleteOh, they're darling! I am so happy for you that you got a great-fitting and great-looking pant making result--and jealous!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much! Buying a sloper made things so much easier. It's about the cost of a pattern if you want to give it a go!
DeleteWow those are amazing! I'm considering bringing a pants muslin to Gertie's next week so I might need to get some tips!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Jenny! That sounds awesome! I've got to get started on muslins for our retreat…
DeleteI love these pants! Pants are such a struggle for me. I also recently fell in love with strong waistband interfacing -- Palmer/Petsch makes a 1" version. :)
ReplyDeleteThanks, Kate! Isn't the waistband stuff magical?!
DeleteWow! These look great! So chic!
ReplyDeleteThanks, miss! I like to call them my sassy pants.
DeleteCute! I have been experimenting in pattern drafting and I think your adventures just gave me the courage to take a go at some vintage cigarette pants!
ReplyDeleteOh yeah!! I'm a huge fan of "Fit for Real People," and I got "Pants for Real People" to help me with fitting these. It was very helpful, so if you get stuck, that might be a good resource to look at.
DeleteTHis look so effortlessly stylish on you. I love this style of pants
ReplyDeleteThanks, Kaitlyn! Me too; they're so easy to wear and still look nice!
DeleteHi Lauren, great idea for the waistband, I bet this would work wonderfully with skirts too. What source did you use for your pants? I'm thinking of making some "swing pants" and I'm having difficulty deciding where I might buy "pant" fabric.
ReplyDeleteYes, definitely! I'm excited to use it on a skirt. I bought this fabric from Denver Fabrics online. They always have great sales on basic solids.
DeleteThese look great, and fit really well! It's good to know about the ban roll for waistbands, and funny timing too! I found some at the fabric store today while looking for horsehair braid, and I had never seen it used before. It's good to know that it works!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Shannon! I can't wait to see the horsehair braid on your graduation dress!
DeleteThese look so good on you, I'm sad they're not make from a pattern I can copy as I would totally make an identical pair!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much! Butterick 5895 is a close modern pattern that I've sewn before. I think the Colette Clovers are similar, too. Or if you're feeling brave, you could try the pants sloper!
DeleteWonderful trousers! You've done well with the fit! i really must get more serious about my goal to sew 1 pair of pants this year!
ReplyDeleteAnd thanks for the tip on the ban roll!
Thanks, Catherine! Than ban roll really is a wonder. I'm amazed every time I wear these pants who well the waistband stays in place all day!
DeleteI never wear trousers but when I do its clearly the type I wanna wear !
ReplyDeleteXxx
Lorna
Http://lornasharp.blogspot.com
I'm with you, Lorna! I hardly wear them either, but these I wear all the time!
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