Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Bedford Cigarette Pants

These pants are my own design, made out of a wool gabardine. They are a classic cigarette pant style, meaning a slim fit pant. I actually made these just before Christmas, and I have worn them constantly! It's such an easy, casual vintage look. You might even remember seeing the original sketch for them back in November.
To make the pattern, I started with my pants sloper, sewed a muslin, and then tried them on inside-out. Then my pattern making instructor pinned excess fabric, I'd sew along that line, and we'd repeat the process again. I did that over and over until I got a fit that I liked. Then I transferred all my markings to the pattern.

This wool gabardine doesn't have any stretch to it, so I made them a bit looser cigarette pant. I think I can do a slimmer fit even still, and intend to with a stretchy fabric. Although these pants were field tested during the holidays, and I am happy to report that I was able to comfortably wear them even after Christmas dinner.
I used ban roll in the waistband for the first time, and gollies, I love it! I purchased it on a suggestion from The Lost Art of Tailoring by Gentleman Jim. It adds stiffness which keeps your waistband from wrinkling as you wear it throughout the day. I highly recommend it! I wish I had found it earlier.
Source
The waistband closes with one of those heavy-duty pants hook and eyes, and then there's an invisible zipper at the left side seam. I find I prefer the side zip over the back zip for this style of pant as it's more comfortable and has less fitting issues.
While I was plotting and scheming for the Bedford Cigarette Pants, I interviewed Aislinn of BooBoo Kitty Couture, who sews the most sensational made-to-measure cigarette pants. So stay tuned for that interview on Thursday! I got the dirt! You know, the poop, scoop, skinny, the haps, the dillio, the 4-11. ("Pushing Daisies reference anyone?!)

26 comments:

  1. Replies
    1. Thank you, Nat! That's a seamstresses favorite compliment (or mine, at least!).

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  2. Nice! These look really smart. (And I think any garment that passes the Christmas dinner test is a winner :) )

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    1. Thanks, Sue! I agree; that's the real test of a good pair of pants!

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  3. Oh, they're darling! I am so happy for you that you got a great-fitting and great-looking pant making result--and jealous!

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    1. Thank you so much! Buying a sloper made things so much easier. It's about the cost of a pattern if you want to give it a go!

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  4. Wow those are amazing! I'm considering bringing a pants muslin to Gertie's next week so I might need to get some tips!

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    1. Thanks, Jenny! That sounds awesome! I've got to get started on muslins for our retreat…

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  5. I love these pants! Pants are such a struggle for me. I also recently fell in love with strong waistband interfacing -- Palmer/Petsch makes a 1" version. :)

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    1. Thanks, Kate! Isn't the waistband stuff magical?!

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  6. Replies
    1. Thanks, miss! I like to call them my sassy pants.

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  7. Cute! I have been experimenting in pattern drafting and I think your adventures just gave me the courage to take a go at some vintage cigarette pants!

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    1. Oh yeah!! I'm a huge fan of "Fit for Real People," and I got "Pants for Real People" to help me with fitting these. It was very helpful, so if you get stuck, that might be a good resource to look at.

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  8. THis look so effortlessly stylish on you. I love this style of pants

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    1. Thanks, Kaitlyn! Me too; they're so easy to wear and still look nice!

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  9. Hi Lauren, great idea for the waistband, I bet this would work wonderfully with skirts too. What source did you use for your pants? I'm thinking of making some "swing pants" and I'm having difficulty deciding where I might buy "pant" fabric.

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    1. Yes, definitely! I'm excited to use it on a skirt. I bought this fabric from Denver Fabrics online. They always have great sales on basic solids.

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  10. These look great, and fit really well! It's good to know about the ban roll for waistbands, and funny timing too! I found some at the fabric store today while looking for horsehair braid, and I had never seen it used before. It's good to know that it works!

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    1. Thanks, Shannon! I can't wait to see the horsehair braid on your graduation dress!

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  11. These look so good on you, I'm sad they're not make from a pattern I can copy as I would totally make an identical pair!

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    1. Thank you so much! Butterick 5895 is a close modern pattern that I've sewn before. I think the Colette Clovers are similar, too. Or if you're feeling brave, you could try the pants sloper!

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  12. Wonderful trousers! You've done well with the fit! i really must get more serious about my goal to sew 1 pair of pants this year!

    And thanks for the tip on the ban roll!

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    1. Thanks, Catherine! Than ban roll really is a wonder. I'm amazed every time I wear these pants who well the waistband stays in place all day!

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  13. I never wear trousers but when I do its clearly the type I wanna wear !
    Xxx
    Lorna
    Http://lornasharp.blogspot.com

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    1. I'm with you, Lorna! I hardly wear them either, but these I wear all the time!

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