Sewing Cigarette Pants with BooBoo Kitty Couture

While planning for my Bedford Cigarette Pants, I contacted the lovely Aislinn of BooBoo Kitty Couture (BBKC) to see if she had any tips. BBKC offers made-to-measure dressmaking services, with fashions inspired by the 1940s and 1950s.  I have long admired her gorgeous cigarette pants, and I knew she would be a wealth of knowledge!

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1. What types of cigarette pants do you make for your customers?

All the clothing I make for customers is made to order so I make a wide range. Ranging from semi-lose cigarette pants, with no stretch so they look more authentic. To skin tight capri pants for a sexy rockabilly bad girl look!

2. Why do you love wearing cigarette pants? Do you have a favorite style icon that wore them?

I love love love wearing cigarette pants. There are far too many icons to mention. Jayne Mansfield in her sexy leopard print, or Audry Hepburn in the film Funny Face wearing plain black ones for a simple yet chic Beatnik style. And of course Marilyn Monroe. Check out my pinterst board.

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3. How do you go about tailoring your cigarette pants to each customer?

I draft the pattern to fit their hips fist and then bring in the waist using darts. Some people have large hip to waist ratio and others small. Those who have high waist to hip ratio I put four drafts at the front, those with small hip to waist ratio, I only can fit two darts at the front.

4. I found the front rise to be particularly challenging. How do you get a snug fit while leaving enough room to sit?!

I much prefer to use fabric with stretch. But I don’t think I have had any problem with the rise being too tight when sitting as the fabric has stretch. I have made pants without stretch but these aren’t as tight on the hips to allow ease when sitting. There is a fine fine balance when fitting pants without stretch, no room for error in fit.

5. What fabric do you recommend for this style of pant?

Medium weight with STRETCH!!

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6. Describe some of the construction details of your pants.

Fixed interfaced waist band, darts at front and back, over locked seams. I also double stitch all seams as I would die if the pants ever split!! Side zipper, hand sewn waist band inside. Trouser clip. Slits at the hem for ease of movement.

7. Do you have any other tips?

Lots of fittings. My pattern is based on a vintage pattern, but has been adapted over the years and no longer resembles the vintage one at all!

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Thank you so much, Aislinn! I am definitely using a stretch fabric next time around. And for those of you in the UK, you can contact Aislinn to enroll in sewing courses taught by her in her studio in Nottingham. She creates some truly beautiful tailored garments, well beyond just cigarette pants, so there's much to learn from her! And I hear there's afternoon tea at a vintage tea shop with the class, too! All us gals across the pond will just have to be jealous.